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1. Mode of Action of Pyrethroids.

Pyrethroids are nerve poisons (neurotoxins) which affect the central and peripheral nervous systems, causing overloading of neural pathways and eventual death when administered at appropriate dose rates. (Observe flies spinning in circles immediately before expiring) These compounds, applied in appropriate doses effectively control ectoparasites on pets and humans, but they often exhibit detrimental side affects on the host, since the host has nerves and can be affected in the same manner as the pest if too much of the chemical enters the host.

Because of these potential side affects, manufacturers of products containing pyrethroids tend to use the lowest concentration of such chemicals in their products to still get acceptable results while avoiding harming the host animal or human administering the product. This leads to a secondary problem, namely the development of immunity in the target pest. The mechanism is simple to understand, as follows.

• Products contain just enough pyrethroids to kill an acceptable per cent of the target pest (generally 90% or more.)
• Upon application, a high percentage of the pests are killed, but many are only stunned. Shortly after treatment the stunned pests recover and fly off to find another or the same host.
• Over time, the surviving pests become immune to the concentration of pyrethroids in the product designed to kill them. They breed, and their offspring are also immune, leading to an increasing population of immune pests. Groomers are quite familiar with this problem because they often do a “white towel” test. After treatment they brush out the dead and apparently dead (stunned) pests (in this case fleas) onto a white towel, then observe how many stay on the towel. It is not unusual to observe from 30 to 50% of the” dead” fleas recover and fly away after 30 minutes. In the trade these are referred to as “ghost fleas.”

2. DeFlea Mode of action.

DeFlea contains no pyrethroids or related chemicals.
It is a proprietary, patented formula containing a surfactant (wetting agent)
and a weak acid which acts as a low grade pest killer. It works on
ectoparasites such as fleas, ticks, lice, and mites because they have
exoskelotons. Their vital organs are encased in an outer skeleton, compared
to mammals whose skeleton is inside and is covered and protected by a layer
of flesh.

The exoskeleton of the pest is a waxy substance which upon contact with DeFlea is softened and penetrated by the surfactant in DeFlea. The weak acid then disturbs the digestive system of the pest, and it promptly disintegrates. An important feature of the DeFlea mode of action and it’s ingredients is that it avoids both problems inherent in the pyrethroid containing products. At the concentrations of chemicals in the DeFlea ready to use formulas, or when the concentrate is diluted to use levels, the toxicity of the product in all
areas required to be analyzed by the EPA is category IV. This means that the probable effect on humans and the host animals is so slight that no warnings or first aid instructions are required on the label.

Further, when contacted by DeFlea the pest disintegrates in a matter of seconds. No development of immunity is possible when the target pest is completely destroyed.

Hence when groomers do the “white towel” test with DeFlea, There are no “ghost” fleas. All of the apparently dead fleas stay dead.

If all a new hobbyist were to do was gloss over the medicine aisle at his favorite local fish store and observe the proliferation of garlic-based treatments, or peruse the various online postings of garlic’s proponents, he would surely come away with several likely impressions:

• Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans (and just about anything else) is easily cured by feeding garlic.
• Quarantine tanks are an unnecessary expense and hassle (assuming he has even heard of a quarantine tank).
• Garlic is a proven appetite stimulant, which can compel even challenging-to-feed fish to take prepared foods.
• Garlic must assuredly be a proven method of disease treatment. Why else would so many reputable manufacturers make and market a cure if it had not been scientifically proven?

That all said, like the other two experiments I discussed, there is little that we can conclude from this paper, either. First and foremost, Freshwater Ich/Ichthyophthirius multifiliis and Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans are not very closely related (Colorni & Burgess, 1997). While it is obvious to anyone familiar with scientific names that these two parasites are in different genera, they are also in totally different classes, with Freshwater Ich/Ichthyophthirius multifiliis being in Oligohymenophora, order Hymenostomatida and Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans placed in Colpodea, order Colpodea. While these two ectoparasites share an apparently similar lifecycle and dispersal mechanism, these similarities are likely caused by convergent evolution rather than by having evolved from a close common ancestor.

As further evidence of the difference between these two parasites, note that malachite green, the medication that the researchers were seeking to replace, is very effective against Freshwater Ich,Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, but is generally not recommended for use against Marine Ich,Cryptocaryon irritans. So whether or not garlic is ever proven to be effective against Freshwater Ich, it does not automatically follow that it will be equally effective against Marine Ich. In fact, there is no a priori reason at all to expect that any medication effective against one of these parasites would also be effective against the other.

Second, this study was only the first step with in vitro experiments. These drugs were not tested on affected fish. It could be that these drugs at these concentrations do work against the parasites, but could also be deadly to the fish. For example, other experiments on saltwater fish infected with Marine Velvet, Amyloodinium ocellatum, showed that hydrogen peroxide was effective in ridding the fish of the parasites, but it also induced mortality rates of anywhere between 30% and 100%, depending on the amount used and the subject being tested (Montgomery-Brock et al, 2001 and here). Clearly, this illustrates the importance of finding a treatment that works against the target organism but doesn’t endanger the host fish.

Now, I understand that many are going to argue that garlic is natural, so regardless of its concentration, it should be safe. My response is simple: palytoxin is natural as well. So is lionfish venom. A lot of naturally occurring substances are harmful, even deadly. Just because something is natural does not automatically render it safe.

Finally, because this was an in vitro trial, the garlic extract was not fed to the fish, as there were no fish to feed. The extract was simply added to the water and it was noted whether or not it had an effect on the parasite’s cyst or free-swimming stages. This raises yet another question of whether or not garlic extract in food would be effective at all.

Garlic Versus Intestinal Worms:

But this study, like the other ones, has some problems. Foremost, a number of the fish from each group, 12 from the experimental group and 11 from the control group, died prematurely. This stopped the author from completing a statistical analysis of the study’s results. These fish all apparently suffered from a ruptured lower intestine from the colonic wash procedure; in short, death by enema. Quick poll question; how many of you all are shifting uncomfortably in your seats or clenching tightly as you read this? These deaths reduced the total number of study participants to the point at which “a definitive conclusion on the effectiveness of garlic cannot be made.”

Additionally, this study, like several of the others, also used fresh garlic. This again begs the question of whether or not commercial preparations are going to be effective after being processed and then sitting on a shelf for an undetermined amount of time at distributor, wholesaler and retailer locations. And along those same lines, what type of ‘fresh garlic’ are people using? I imagine just like all other commercially grown crops, garlic too has been selectively bred over the decades to develop varieties that differ in taste, texture, size, smell, etc. I don’t believe whether or not the variety of garlic used affects the allicin concentration has been investigated.

And lastly, these were freshwater fish. There is no telling whether or not these results (if later repeated, analyzed and statistically verified) would hold true for all susceptible species of saltwater fish or all the potential intestinal parasitic worms that they carry.

Kelly Jedlicki’s Western Marine Aquarium Conference Presentation:

Kelly was giving a presentation on general pufferfish care. Part of her discussion centered on the number of fish that she had received that were parasitized with internal worms. In looking for a treatment that was safe and effective, she stumbled across garlic. At this conference, she shared her anecdotal experience of garlic being an effective dewormer. She also happened to mention in passing that she noticed a general decrease in occurrences of Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans when using this garlic treatment. That’s it. This does not sound like a ringing endorsement to me. Nor was this a controlled study demonstrating that garlic had an effect on Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans. But none of that seems to matter because from there the legend of garlic spread far and wide. Why are so many people willing to go with this “treatment” based solely upon this one innocuous, anecdotal report? I hate to say it, but I believe laziness had to play at least part of a role. Consider the alternative, proven treatments for an infected tank. In the lack of an easily available magic bullet, the hobbyist has to tear apart the entire aquarium, remove all the fish to a second quarantine system and treat them with hyposalinity or copper while leaving the display empty of fish for a month or two. Or, the aquarist can simply leave the fish in the display and add a couple of drops of this garlic extract to their food and they should heal on their own. When put in those terms, who wouldn’t pick the garlic alterative?

Summary:

So, now that we know what has been studied regarding garlic, it should be readily apparent that there is still much that we don’t know about garlic’s use as a treatment, particularly against Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans. I hope to shed some light on this in the coming months with a controlled study testing the effectiveness of garlic extract on fish exposed to Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans. Hopefully, I will be able to determine whether garlic has any effect against this parasite, independent of natural acquired immunity. Until such time as that is proven, use a garlic treatment at your (and your fishes’) own risk.

• Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans (and just about anything else) is easily cured by feeding garlic.
• Quarantine tanks are an unnecessary expense and hassle (assuming he has even heard of a quarantine tank).
• Garlic is a proven appetite stimulant, which can compel even challenging-to-feed fish to take prepared foods.
• Garlic must assuredly be a proven method of disease treatment. Why else would so many reputable manufacturers make and market a cure if it had not been scientifically proven?

Taking these points in order, first garlic has never been conclusively proven to cure Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans), ever. Some hobbyists have used it and reported that their fish got better, but these are not controlled studies and none of these hobbyists know for certain if their fish’s own natural immunity was the true reason for the cure, or if garlic had any impact whatsoever. Also, there are a number of hobbyists which have used garlic and suffered significant losses of fish as well.

Second, quarantine tanks are a cost-effective and simple method to ensure the health and well being of your aquatic pets. These tanks really should be standard in this hobby and it is a real shame that they are so often overlooked. In my opinion, stores and fellow, experienced hobbyists who don’t recommend this protocol to beginners are doing them and the hobby in general a disservice. Advocating that aquarists play it fast and loose when it comes to quarantine is frankly irresponsible and is likely setting them up for eventual failure.

Third, while many hobbyists report using garlic and then noticing an increase in feeding activity, there is no conclusive proof to this claim, either. It could be that the pungent and/or unrecognized/unnatural smell of the garlic brought the fish over to investigate the food, but there is no way of knowing whether or not they would have eaten food not treated with garlic, or whether or not any strong-smelling food additive would have done the same thing. It could also simply be that enough time had elapsed that the fish was finally prepared to eat and adding garlic was just a coincidence. Frankly, there are far too many variables to conclusively evaluate these claims.

And regarding the last point above, so many manufacturers are making these products because there is market demand for them, plain and simple. A lot of people are buying garlic-based medications, so the manufacturers are simply giving the buying public what it wants. The list of manufacturers that have jumped onto this bandwagon is truly impressive. Just about every major manufacturer is marketing its own brand of garlic extract. A quick search of a couple of my local fish stores yielded the following:
Ecosystem Garlic Elixir
Kent Garlic X-treme
Seachem Garlic Guard

Various brands of fish food are now even promoting that they have added garlic to their recipes. And yet, none of these alleged benefits has ever been proven. That is not to say that no studies have been done on garlic and its use to combat fish diseases. Several studies have been published regarding garlic, but none of these has dealt with Cryptocaryon irritans, which seems to be the most common ailment for which garlic’s use is advocated, likely because it is simply the marine ornamental disease most commonly encountered.

Garlic by Any Other Name Still Smells Just as Pungent:
People describe garlic in a number of different ways. The most common is simply to say they treated the food with garlic or garlic extract. Those are both easy enough to understand. But, various references also use other names. The scientific name for the garlic plant is Allium sativum, so don’t be confused if that name comes up when reading other articles or any of the references listed at the end of this article. Some people also use the term allicin. That is shorthand for the active ingredient in garlic extract. Chemically, allicin is diallyl thiosulfiniate or diallyl disulphide-oxide (Cortes-Jorge 2000). All of these terms, though, are generally talking about the same thing.

Garlic as an Appetite Stimulant:
I was able to find one brief report from the public aquarium literature that attempted to use garlic extract as an appetite stimulant (Ashdown & Violetta, 2004). This “experiment” was conducted at SeaWorld in Orlando, Florida. A 660,000-gallon display containing 50 assorted elasmobranchs was the test tank. It held 19 sand tiger sharks (Carcharias taurus). Of those 19, two of the sharks had refused to eat regularly and had begun to lose weight over time. Sand tiger A once weighed in at 108 kg in 1990, but by April 2003 was down to 73 kg. Sand tiger B was its largest in March of 2002, weighing 74.5 kg, but had also decreased in size and weighed only 70.6 kg in April of 2003.

At that point, each shark’s food received garlic added in the ratio of 1 cc of minced garlic per pound of food offered. They were then fed the garlic-laced food for 13 weeks. Sand tiger A took to the treated food immediately with new vigor. It ate near or above its targeted allotment of food every day during the testing but one. And on that day, the shark had been weighed, so the SeaWorld personnel felt it was possible that the stress of the procedure affected its appetite. But, sand tiger B did not demonstrate the same change in behavior. It refused to eat at all for the entire first month of the testing phase. And when it did finally eat some of the garlic injected food, its feeding behavior did not improve and it continued to feed only sporadically.

All in all, this brief report is certainly not a ringing endorsement of garlic as an appetite stimulant. That said, there are numerous problems with this study. First, from our perspective as aquarists, they made this attempt with sharks and not standard aquarium fishes. Second, they used only two test subjects. A larger group of fish would be best for comparison. And finally, there were no controls to speak of. Since we cannot discount some other factor having been involved in sand tiger A’s behavioral changes, we really can’t draw any conclusions from this report.

This brings me to my real point, which is that this highly flawed study is no better or worse than someone saying, “My fish would not eat. Then I added garlic extract to their food and they now eat great!” These reports are practically meaningless. Just as we cannot draw any conclusions from this public aquarium trial, nor can we draw any conclusions from similar unfounded statements made online.

Garlic Versus Mycobacterium marinum:
Garlic has been studied for its effectiveness against a bacterial infection of fish (Colorni et al, 1998). One hundred and sixty sea bass (Dicentrarchus labrax) were intentionally infected with Mycobacterium marinum via injection with cultured cells. The study’s participants also kept a positive control group of another 40 specimens, which they held in conditions similar to, but separate from, the infected fish, but injected them only with saline. All of these fish were then held and monitored to watch the disease’s progression. After nine weeks, the infected fish showed clinical signs of infection upon dissection and examination. At this point, the infected fish were broken up into four smaller groups of 40 each: a negative control group which received no treatment, an experimental group that received antibiotic (streptomycin) injections, a second experimental group that received garlic extract injections, and a third experimental group that received injections of both the antibiotic and garlic extract. All fish were treated for an additional 12 weeks. During this time, sample fish were selected and dissected to monitor the disease’s progression or recession.

The interesting revelation that came from this study is that it revealed a statistically significant stronger immune response in the fish given only garlic versus the fish given antibiotics, antibiotics and garlic, or the untreated control group. Part of this apparent anomaly is that antibiotics also have an immunosuppressive effect. In layman’s terms, while they work to kill bacteria, they also don’t permit the body to fight as hard as normal against the infection. But, the fact that the fish treated with garlic showed a stronger immune response than the untreated control group lead the study authors to suggest that “allicin treatment seems to have an enhancing effect on antibody activity when compared with all other groups.”

The bad news is that this paper dealt with a bacterial infection. There is no relationship between garlic’s effect on bacterial infections and parasitic infestations. Also, the fish were not fed garlic-laced food; they were injected with garlic extract. That brings into question whether feeding fish garlic extract would be as effective as injecting them with it. Additionally, the garlic extract was prepared freshly for every injection. This is particularly important when taking into account the effectiveness of commercial preparation, and also in light of the fact that allicin, the active ingredient in garlic, is unstable and prone to breakdown in a relatively short amount of time (Cortes-Jorge 2000). Furthermore, since garlic is a non-natural food, the antigen effect of a novel compound may have been responsible for increased immune response, and although they used a negative control (nothing), they did not use a similar variable – i.e. onion, paprika, nutmeg, or whatever else one has in their spice cabinet that they think might somehow help their fish fight disease). And finally, even though all the fish showed improvement by the end of the study, none of the fish was completely healed. They all remained infected with Mycobacterium marinum, although at low levels.

I wonder if this could this be why some people who don’t use conventional, proven treatments such as hyposalinity and copper see repeated outbreaks when adding new fish or when their current fish become stressed? The idea that garlic could possibly help with a stronger immune response but not completely eliminate the pathogen is intriguing to me. This would help to explain some of the posts on the internet message boards of repeated outbreaks as well as provide false evidence to the believers that Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans is always present. That theory aside, I have already stated that bacteria are completely different than parasitic protozoans. There maybe no correlation at all. It is simply something that struck me in my reading.

There is also one more problem with this study. When they began, they believed that they had naïve fish, ones that had never been exposed to Mycobacterium marinum. But, as the study progressed and additional tests were undertaken, they later believed that the fish had had some previous exposure to this pathogen because of antibody counts in the unexposed control group.

Sodium Percarbonate and Garlic Versus Ichthyophthirius multifiliis:
One interesting paper (Buchmann, Jensen, & Kruse, 2003) detailed work done with sodium percarbonate and garlic extract against Freshwater Ich/Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. The push for this study involved malachite green, a substance routinely used to deal with this parasite that was banned for use on food fish because it is carcinogenic. So, safe yet effective alternatives were being investigated.

This study was strictly an in vitro trial. Basically, parasites were harvested, placed into Petri dishes, exposed to sodium percarbonate or garlic extract, and then monitored to determine the lethal concentrations and exposure times of both. The study found that sodium percarbonate killed the free-swimming infective stage of Freshwater Ich/Ichthyophthirius multifiliis at 12.5 mg/L for 180 minutes or 62.5 mg/L for 90 minutes. Garlic extract required 62.5 mg/L for 900 minutes or 312.5 mg/L for 180 minutes to be effective. For comparison, malachite green is effective in 90 minutes at only 0.5 mg/L or 900 minutes at 0.1 mg/L, much lower concentrations than either of the experimental treatments. For the parasite’s reproductive cyst stage, no concentration of sodium percarbonate was noted that differed from the control in effectiveness, while it required 570 mg/L of garlic extract to kill 100% of the cysts. Again, for comparison, only 0.15 mg/L of malachite green is needed to kill 100% of the cysts.

That all said, like the other two experiments I discussed, there is little that we can conclude from this paper, either. First and foremost, Freshwater Ich/Ichthyophthirius multifiliis and Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans are not very closely related (Colorni & Burgess, 1997). While it is obvious to anyone familiar with scientific names that these two parasites are in different genera, they are also in totally different classes, with Freshwater Ich/Ichthyophthirius multifiliis being in Oligohymenophora, order Hymenostomatida and Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans placed in Colpodea, order Colpodea. While these two ectoparasites share an apparently similar lifecycle and dispersal mechanism, these similarities are likely caused by convergent evolution rather than by having evolved from a close common ancestor.

As further evidence of the difference between these two parasites, note that malachite green, the medication that the researchers were seeking to replace, is very effective against Freshwater Ich, Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, but is generally not recommended for use against Marine Ich, Cryptocaryon irritans. So whether or not garlic is ever proven to be effective against Freshwater Ich, it does not automatically follow that it will be equally effective against Marine Ich. In fact, there is no a priori reason at all to expect that any medication effective against one of these parasites would also be effective against the other.

Second, this study was only the first step with in vitro experiments. These drugs were not tested on affected fish. It could be that these drugs at these concentrations do work against the parasites, but could also be deadly to the fish. For example, other experiments on saltwater fish infected with Marine Velvet, Amyloodinium ocellatum, showed that hydrogen peroxide was effective in ridding the fish of the parasites, but it also induced mortality rates of anywhere between 30% and 100%, depending on the amount used and the subject being tested (Montgomery-Brock et al, 2001 and here). Clearly, this illustrates the importance of finding a treatment that works against the target organism but doesn’t endanger the host fish.

Now, I understand that many are going to argue that garlic is natural, so regardless of its concentration, it should be safe. My response is simple: palytoxin is natural as well. So is lionfish venom. A lot of naturally occurring substances are harmful, even deadly. Just because something is natural does not automatically render it safe.

Finally, because this was an in vitro trial, the garlic extract was not fed to the fish, as there were no fish to feed. The extract was simply added to the water and it was noted whether or not it had an effect on the parasite’s cyst or free-swimming stages. This raises yet another question of whether or not garlic extract in food would be effective at all.

Garlic Versus Intestinal Worms:
One article (Fairfield, 1996) that I found details an experiment conducted using garlic extract to combat a nematode (Capillaria species) infestation in common freshwater angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare). The author of this article went to various breeders, wholesalers and retailers looking for angelfish in which this worm was present. Suspected host fish were given a colonic wash to look for evidence of worms and/or their eggs. From a wholesaler, sixty individuals were selected for this study that were described as having a “moderate to heavy load of these parasites.” These 60 fish were divided into two groups. From each group, five individuals were randomly selected, killed and dissected to examine the number of worms and eggs present. An average of 2.1 worms per fish was found in the dissected fish along with an average of 10.3 eggs per fish. The remaining 25 fish from each group were given another colonic wash. The author found that these fish had an average of five eggs per fish, but no worms were extracted during the colonic wash procedure. Both fish groups were housed in identical 55-gallon aquariums. They both were fed a homemade fish food recipe, but the experimental group had fresh garlic extract added to its food. The fish were held for two months, with half receiving the garlic-laced food. After that time, all the fish were euthanized and dissected. Of the experimental group, all of the fish but two showed a complete absence of any worms or eggs. One fish still had one worm, while the other one had eight. Neither fish had any eggs present at that time. The one fish that still had eight worms was noted as being the smallest of the group. It was theorized by the article’s author that being low in the pecking order had contributed to this particular fish’s not getting enough to eat, and therefore possibly not ingesting a sufficient quantity of the garlic to make a difference. In contrast, the untreated control group had an average of two worms and 14.6 eggs per fish upon dissection. This would seem to show that garlic can be used to treat nematode infestations in freshwater angelfish.

But this study, like the other ones, has some problems. Foremost, a number of the fish from each group, 12 from the experimental group and 11 from the control group, died prematurely. This stopped the author from completing a statistical analysis of the study’s results. These fish all apparently suffered from a ruptured lower intestine from the colonic wash procedure; in short, death by enema. Quick poll question; how many of you all are shifting uncomfortably in your seats or clenching tightly as you read this? These deaths reduced the total number of study participants to the point at which “a definitive conclusion on the effectiveness of garlic cannot be made.”

Additionally, this study, like several of the others, also used fresh garlic. This again begs the question of whether or not commercial preparations are going to be effective after being processed and then sitting on a shelf for an undetermined amount of time at distributor, wholesaler and retailer locations. And along those same lines, what type of ‘fresh garlic’ are people using? I imagine just like all other commercially grown crops, garlic too has been selectively bred over the decades to develop varieties that differ in taste, texture, size, smell, etc. I don’t believe whether or not the variety of garlic used affects the allicin concentration has been investigated.

And lastly, these were freshwater fish. There is no telling whether or not these results (if later repeated, analyzed and statistically verified) would hold true for all susceptible species of saltwater fish or all the potential intestinal parasitic worms that they carry.

Kelly Jedlicki’s Western Marine Aquarium Conference Presentation:
To properly discuss the use of garlic, we really need to go back to the origins of garlic’s use for ornamental marines and revisit the presentation Kelly Jedlicki gave at the 1998 Midwest Marine Aquarium Conference in Michigan. It was there that the idea of feeding our fish garlic was first introduced to the saltwater hobby. Now, I must admit, I was not lucky enough to attend this conference firsthand. But, I know Kelly rather well now, and we have discussed this topic on numerous occasions.

Kelly was giving a presentation on general pufferfish care. Part of her discussion centered on the number of fish that she had received that were parasitized with internal worms. In looking for a treatment that was safe and effective, she stumbled across garlic. At this conference, she shared her anecdotal experience of garlic being an effective dewormer. She also happened to mention in passing that she noticed a general decrease in occurrences of Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans when using this garlic treatment. That’s it. This does not sound like a ringing endorsement to me. Nor was this a controlled study demonstrating that garlic had an effect on Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans. But none of that seems to matter because from there the legend of garlic spread far and wide. Why are so many people willing to go with this “treatment” based solely upon this one innocuous, anecdotal report? I hate to say it, but I believe laziness had to play at least part of a role. Consider the alternative, proven treatments for an infected tank. In the lack of an easily available magic bullet, the hobbyist has to tear apart the entire aquarium, remove all the fish to a second quarantine system and treat them with hyposalinity or copper while leaving the display empty of fish for a month or two. Or, the aquarist can simply leave the fish in the display and add a couple of drops of this garlic extract to their food and they should heal on their own. When put in those terms, who wouldn’t pick the garlic alterative?

Summary:
To recap, garlic’s use as an appetite stimulant is questionable at best. It seemed to have a positive effect when injected into fish that were infected with a bacterium. It can kill the freshwater Ich parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis when dosed in rather high concentrations in the water. And, it might be an effective dewormer in freshwater fish. But, none of that means it will do anything against Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans when added to the food of infected fish.

So, now that we know what has been studied regarding garlic, it should be readily apparent that there is still much that we don’t know about garlic’s use as a treatment, particularly against Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans. I hope to shed some light on this in the coming months with a controlled study testing the effectiveness of garlic extract on fish exposed to Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans. Hopefully, I will be able to determine whether garlic has any effect against this parasite, independent of natural acquired immunity. Until such time as that is proven, use a garlic treatment at your (and your fishes’) own risk.

This entire article is nothing more than my own personal opinion. But that opinion has developed during my 13 years of marine aquarium keeping as well as my 10 years of working full-time in the ornamental fish industry. I offer it not so much as a definitive statement, but as a guide to what I go through and what I look for when purchasing fishes, and as an aid to my fellow aquarists.

-Steven Pro

Compatibility: Research, Research, Research!

While I have attempted to thoroughly discuss the most common diseases of marine fishes in an effort to help fellow hobbyists save their aquatic pets once they have already been purchased (see the list of additional reading material at the end of this article), many problems with general fish health and anomalous losses can be averted by careful and critical selection of fishes at the time of their purchase. The first thing to do is to decide which fish are desired. I always advise clients to plan, with my advice and counsel of course, every fish they are going to add before adding the first fish. This prevents compatibility issues later and saves the trouble of removing one fish from a fully stocked display when it is later decided that another fish is more desirable. Many fish don’t get along well with others of the same species or even with those of the same genus. Knowing this and planning accordingly saves trouble later.

Second, once a wish list of desired species is developed, further research is necessary. Will these fish get along? Even if the aquarist is aware that he may have only one surgeonfish, he may not realize that the planned yellow tang (Zebrasoma flavescens) won’t get along well with a foxface (Siganus vulpinus), a raccoon butterflyfish (Chaetodon lunula) or most other fish with a grossly similar overall appearance.

Size – It is Even More Important than You Think:

After determining the compatibility of the planned tankmates, the full adult size of the desired fish should be determined. Purchase only fish that can be kept in the display currently owned. In many instances, an aquarist claims that he intends to purchase a bigger tank sometime in the near future and will be housing this larger animal in the relatively small display for only the next six months to two years. Unfortunately, though, life happens. People get laid-off. They get divorced and lose their house. Any number of reasons might derail their planned upgrade. And, because of this, the fish suffer from inadequate space and, in some cases, poor water quality as a result.

Know Some History:

The next factor to examine is whether the selected fish has historically done well in captivity. Most hobbyists should realize that some fishes (and many other ornamental marine organisms) offered for sale do not fare well in captivity. Many have highly specialized diets that are currently impossible to replicate. Others hail from cool, temperate waters and do not survive long-term in a warm, tropical display. Careful research before their purchase helps to avoid these simple mistakes.

As more of an editorial comment, if we can’t or won’t police ourselves, eventually the government or some other entity will do it for us. The only reason we routinely see obligate coral polyp-eating butterflyfish, remoras, baby nurse sharks and other “dead fish – swimming” offered for sale to uninformed, new aquarists is to make a quick buck from an impulse purchase. This kind of shortsighted profit taking does not do the hobby or the industry at large any good. While it may appear that an endless stream of new “suckers” enters this hobby every day, imagine the money generated if most of these people were offered sound advice, good equipment and healthy livestock, thereby making for successful, long-term hobbyists. It is a shame that so many stores seem to operate instead on the P. T. Barnum “a sucker is born every minute” concept. And frankly, it is not a sound business model. Planning not to maintain clients, but instead to turn over nearly 100% of customers every year, is a difficult proposition to pull off. But, I digress.

Know Your Limitations:

I mentioned fishes whose diet cannot currently be replicated, but there are others that can be fed but which might be more challenging or consume more time than the aquarist wishes to invest. Careful research beforehand, as well as thorough and realistic introspection as to the level of skill in aquarium keeping and the amount of free time willing to be invested, can preempt these problems as well. For example, mandarinfish (photo left) are certainly not impossible to keep in captivity, but they are not for everyone. They require larger displays with noncompetitive tankmates and, preferably, a refugium to provide them with sufficient live food. Again, careful research before their purchase will help prevent needless livestock losses and make for a more conscientious hobbyist.

Pathogens:
During this research period, pay particular attention to the diseases to which your potential tankmates may be prone. Certain fishes are typically plagued by certain pathogens. Surgeonfishes and puffers, for example, are routinely afflicted with Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans. Puffers are also known to have problems with internal worm infestations (Jedlicki, pers. comm.). In my experience, Acanthurus species tangs frequently are stricken with both Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans and Marine Velvet/Amyloodinium ocellatum. And, wild caught clownfish are often afflicted with Brooklynella hostilis. Knowing this prior to bringing the animal home helps during its initial examination at the local fish store as well as ensuring the aquarist is prepared by having the proper medications on hand for treatment in the event the fish becomes ill.

Additionally, it’s important to research whether the fish poses any danger to the aquarist. While most aquarists are familiar with lionfish and stonefish envenomation, and some know about the dangerous spines of foxfaces/rabbitfishes and marine catfishes, there are other surprises as well. For example, I was recently surprised to discover that scats are venomous, and it’s quite painful to be jabbed by their dorsal fin.

Captive-bred, Tank-raised or Wild-caught:

One last thing to inquire about is whether or not the chosen animal is available captive-reared. Whenever possible, I encourage fellow hobbyists to buy a tank-raised specimen; they are generally far hardier and less disease-ridden than their wild-caught counterparts. Consequently, this translates into less work for the aquarist and makes for a better value for the money spent. And, it is arguably a more environmentally-friendly choice.

Evaluating the Specimen: Local Fish Store Versus Online or Catalog

Once all of the research is complete, it is time to search for and evaluate the desired species. This is probably going to be one of the most controversial statements I make in this article, but I feel compelled to say it. I don’t understand buying fish mail-order or online as a hobbyist. Frankly, I would not buy a pair of pants for myself without first looking at them in a store and trying them on, let alone purchase a live animal without evaluating it firsthand. How would you know if they are going to make your butt look big or not? Oh, wait a minute! I am supposed to be talking about fish.

That is not to say, though, that I am against online sales in all instances. There are certain things I would urge hobbyists to purchase online or mail-order: live rock, for instance. It does not make sense to pay a premium for something like that. Significant discounts, even with shipping prices factored in, can be had by buying online. Plus, the aquarist can obtain a fresher product with a higher likelihood of creature diversity. Other items, such as protein skimmers and lighting, are best purchased via the internet because of the potential savings, and also because of the range of choices available. How can anyone expect a small “Mom and Pop” local fish store to stock 175, 250 and 400-watt single-ended metal halide fixtures along with 150 and 250-watt double-ended options in 6,500 K, 10,000 K, 14,000 K and 20,000 K lamps for all those wattages and various manufacturers such as Ushio, Aqualine-Buschke, Iwasaki, XM, Hamilton, etc., not to mention the myriad of reflector and ballast options to be had? No store could possibly afford the expense of stocking all those variations. But, that is exactly what large warehouse vendors that sell through mail-order catalogs or via the internet do so well.

While I prefer to purchase fish locally after first being evaluated, I do not recommend purchasing fish from a store that practices poor husbandry or routinely stocks animals for impulse purchases that are historically known to fare poorly in captivity. I don’t give my business to stores that prey upon the ignorant and uninformed, and I encourage others to do likewise. Vote with your dollars and reward the good local fish stores that are conscientious and run a clean shop.

Additionally, there are some areas of the country, unfortunately, that because of their small population or remote location cannot support a local fish store. As such, individuals living in these areas are relegated to purchasing online or mail-order exclusively. But, that is one of the beauties of the internet. It can fill those voids in retail markets and can also help consumers make good purchasing decisions. In these instances, buying decisions should not revolve exclusively around availability and price. Scour the internet looking for feedback on the vendor that is being considered. There is no shortage of people willing to volunteer their opinion online. Try to sift through those opinions to find legitimate praise or positive comment with regard to the quality of the animals received, packaging, shipping and customer service in general.

Collection Locale:

When evaluating a specimen, the first thing I want to determine is from where the animal hails. Collection locale is extremely important when selecting healthy livestock. Some places put more effort and money into collecting, holding and shipping livestock, and while that extra care comes at a premium in terms of its actual purchase price, it pays off in the livestocks’ health and vigor. Some places that I am particularly fond of purchasing fish from include Hawaii, Fiji, the Red Sea and Australia. Also, don’t simply take the word of the local fish store employee that the particular fish being looked at actually comes from where he says. Sometimes stores and their employees are simply misinformed regarding the correct collection locale, and in some instances I get the feeling that someone is trying to pull a fast one. Ask yourself, do the price, coloration and known geographic distribution coincide with the claimed collection locale? This takes a bit of research on the part of the hobbyist prior to walking into the store, but it is well worth it.

Knowing the fish’s collection locale can also help an aquarist avoid fish that have been captured using cyanide. Unfortunately, cyanide is still a problem for marine ornamentals and the live food fish industry. But it is currently limited to a few places such as the Philippines, parts of Indonesia and I have recently heard of it spreading to Vietnam. On the other hand, I have never heard of any confirmed reports of fish coming from the Caribbean, Hawaii, Fiji, the Red Sea, Australia or the Sea of Cortez that are captured with cyanide, although I have heard of other drugs being used such as MS-222, clove oil, bleach and Quinaldine. But, I have not done enough research at this time to discuss how widespread they are or their potential negative impacts.

Another thing to look for in fishes potentially caught with cyanide is a dazed and confused appearance. The fish don’t interact with others in the tank, nor do they react to your presence. A healthy fish should dart and hide when first approached, but should be curious enough to come back out to see what you are up to. Cyanide exposed fish typically remain motionless, staring off into space. They also tend to appear overly bright colored. I can best describe it as an aura, looking as if the holding tank is illuminated with a lot of actinic lighting when nothing more than standard full-spectrum lighting is actually in use.

General Appearance & Behavior:

As part of observing its general appearance, also examine the fish for spots, a dusty appearance, rapid breathing (anything greater than one respiration per second), red streaks, missing or damaged fins, cloudy or bulging eyes or anything else that is out of the ordinary. I won’t buy damaged or obviously sick fish, and I would not recommend that others do it either. That is not to say, however, that a quick, cursory observation will allow aquarists to avoid all sick fish. Several diseases are difficult-to-impossible to detect from a brief observation because of the pathogen’s life cycle or appearance. That is why quarantine is so critical. But, a careful observation helps minimize the outbreaks and damage done prior to the chosen treatment. This, in turn, helps to lessen subsequent losses.

Also, I pay particular attention to the mouth of long-snouted fishes like butterflyfish and certain surgeonfish. In some instances, these long-nosed fishes are damaged in transit when bounced around in shipping bags. This is evidenced by red streaks radiating out from the mouth or white “cottony” looking growths on their lips. If any of these signs is evident, I pass on that animal. To me, this is a double whammy. The infection must first be dealt with while the fish typically goes without eating. So, once the treatment is successful and the infection has cleared up, the aquarist is still left with a lean fish that needs additional “TLC” to regain its normal weight.

Next, I like to see if the animal is eating. I won’t necessarily reject it if it won’t eat the offered food, but it does factor into my decision if it will, or won’t, feed. Secondly, what did it eat? Most any fish will consume live brine shrimp if offered, but they might not survive and grow to a full adult size on a diet of nothing but live Artemia. Fish that are feeding on pellet or flake food are a much better risk, in my opinion. Additionally, bear in mind that some fish probably won’t make the transition to prepared foods in the short time they spend at the local fish store. Fish such as mandarins, or gulping predators such as lionfish and groupers, are typically going to require additional work to get them feeding on frozen or dry foods. But, that is simply par for the course with some fishes and something that was, hopefully, learned during the research prior their purchase.

The Goldilocks Analogy:

The last aspect of physical appearance to evaluate is size. While I have already mentioned researching the full adult size of the fish in question, its size at the time of purchase is also very important. Basically, I want a fish that is neither too big nor too small. I want one that’s just the right size. I avoid all tiny, baby fishes – the ones typically seen that are under one-inch long. Of course this, like most any rule of thumb in this hobby, is simply a rough estimate. It obviously does not apply to small fishes like gobies, for example, that might not even grow to one-inch as adults, but hopefully you get the basic point, namely, avoid those that are exceptionally small. While these tiny offerings are awfully cute and tempting, there is a tremendously high mortality rate with these baby fishes. I have heard it theorized that baby fish are probably like human babies in that they need constant small feedings, which they don’t get while navigating the chain of custody from the reefs to the final vendor. As such, they are probably half-starved to death by the time they are offered for sale. I definitely see the logic in that train of thought. While I don’t know for sure if that is why they seem to perish more frequently, they still have a high rate of mortality, for whatever reason.

I also avoid very large specimens. These are the so-called “show” fishes offered for sale. For one, they are not a good value. Shipping large fishes is expensive because they need a box all to themselves and require a lot of water, i.e. weight, to go with it. Remember that much of the dealer’s final costs associated with a fish, and therefore its purchase price, are the freight costs. Large bags of water drive up the price of shipping a fish from point A to B.

Also, it often takes a lot of work to get these large fishes to take prepared foods, assuming they ever do. Again, I have heard people theorize that these large fishes are too old and “set in their ways” to learn to eat prepared foods. To me, that sounds a little too anthropomorphic. But, I have seen a number of larger fishes refuse to eat for what seemed like a longer period of time than their smaller counterparts. It could simply be that these larger fishes, having searched day after day for food while looking downwards at the substrate for grazing material, have a hard time learning to look upwards for food dropping from the heavens.

Play the Waiting Game:

Once a specimen has been selected, one might wonder what is left to do besides taking it home. But remember that you are paying a premium from the local fish store because of its potential losses, along with other associated costs. Let that work to your advantage. Place a deposit on the fish you want, and let it sit for three to seven days before actually purchasing it. Morgan Lidster has spoken and written about something he calls “Post Traumatic Shipping Disorder.” Additionally, Edward Noga has written about something he calls “Delayed Mortality Syndrome” (Noga, 2000). Both of these phrases characterize similar phenomenon. Basically, these terms mean a fish may die from any number of reasons related to shipping trauma; things such as temperature changes, lack of oxygen, depressed pH, salinity shock, etc. None of these stresses are readily apparent upon physical examination, though. So, by allowing the fish to acclimate for up to one week in the dealer’s tank, I can be reasonably sure that the fish won’t keel over at a later date from unexplained reasons when I bring it home.

Again, like most rules regarding aquarium keeping, there are exceptions to this rule. In the case of fishes such as dragonettes, seahorses, pipefish and other frequent feeders, I take them home as soon as possible. Simply put, I trust the care I can provide for these challenging fishes more than that provided by any local fish store.

Conclusion

Hopefully, most will find this guide to be useful. I have tried to lay out in a systematic way the processes that I go through when purchasing a fish, even though I don’t have a true checklist, either literal or mental. I do many things when evaluating a fish that are almost subconscious, honed from years of experience. In time, you too will learn and perform this sort of analysis without even thinking about it. In the meantime, use my advice as a guide to enjoying this hobby even more.

This year’s show featured over 850 exhibitors, over 2,500 booths and more than 3,000 new product launches. More than 4,100 pet product buyers from around the world attended. Global Pet Expo is open to independent retailers, distributors, mass-market buyers, and other qualified professionals. The show is not open to the public.

Why did we go? For several reasons but these are the top ones

1. Educate ourselves on products we carry by talking to the manufacturer’s representatives so we can relay the product features and benefits to you, our customers.
2. Review the new products coming out or are about to be launched so that we know what’s coming available and if it is something we should add to the store’s selection.
3. Seek out brands that offer our customers the best value for the price.
4. We want to continue to be price competitive with national pet chains so we hunt for the best ways to buy our products and pass that savings on to you.
5. Fill gaps in our product selection not currently available through our normal distribution channels.

Here are a few things to look forward to in the next couple of weeks at Bird Dog & Cat Fish.

For your pet’s collar a pet tag engraving machine to make name tags.

• More pet beds.
• More cat scratching posts, toys, and accessories.
• A complete line of car safety products for transporting dogs in your car; safety harnesses, seat protectors, bag carriers, etc.

We have many catalogs and brochures at the store for the latest pet products. If you want to see what’s new yourself, stop by and look through these as they will be available for you to review.

Best Regards,

Mike

Removing fish from a fully decorated display is a common headache for some and a nightmare for others.

The typical scenario involves removing every piece of live rock and coral, followed by tediously chasing the fish until it succumbs to exhaustion and is finally removed. At this point, the aquarist is left with the ominous task of replacing all the live rock and corals to their exact previous locations because the display just looked so good before. Inevitably, all of the pieces don’t fit back together just right – things don’t end up looking the same.

A lot of dirt and detritus get kicked up in the process, and the fish suffer a tremendous amount of stress from the ordeal. Well, fear not, fellow fish geeks! I am going to provide a variety of tips and tricks to help even the most novice net wielders successfully remove their targeted fish safely and efficiently.

Helping my Friend, Scott Fellman

I recently visited some marine aquarist clubs on the west coast. The first club I visited was the Marine Aquarium Society of Los Angeles County (MASLAC). My host for the weekend was fellow fish geek and friend, Scott Fellman. He had the makings of a rather beautiful display at his home. The aquascaping was original and interesting, and he had an unusual and eclectic group of fishes. The only thing lacking was enough time to permit the corals to grow into the display. While I was commenting on his fish selection, I remarked that he should get a partner for his black and white clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris). Scott said that he had a second clownfish that he had already removed to the sump, and he actually had been working on catching the second one for several weeks. It turns out that this particular pair was aggressive and had been harassing some of his other smaller fishes. After numerous failed attempts to remove them, he had become somewhat discouraged and remarked that this one, in particular, was tricky. I assured him, “Don’t worry, we will get that fish out of there this weekend.” I could read the look in Scott’s eyes. It was a combination of, “Please don’t wreck my display. It took me weeks to get everything just the way I want,” and, “Yeah, right! There is no way on God’s green earth that you are going to be able to get that fish.”

Later that same evening, I was relaxing while watching TV and checking out the fish tank. Scott and his wife had gone off to the kitchen to get more drinks and snacks. While they were gone, the lights on the display began turning off, which caught my attention. I looked up and noticed that while most of the fish had gone into hiding, that lone troublesome clownfish was front and center. You see, the rest of the room’s lights were on, leaving the living room fairly bright. This fish was orienting itself to the room lights. Being a long time fish geek and student of fish behavior, I quickly realized that this was a golden opportunity to catch this fish. Based upon this short observation and my experience, I was fairly confident that this fish would stay along the front glass, keeping toward the light, and this would make for an easy removal. I called to Scott in the kitchen and asked him where his fish net was. He seemed a bit reluctant to get it for me, but also seemed to want to humor me. We opened up the top canopy, and I made my attempt at removing the fish. Although somewhat disappointed in myself, it took me two swoops with the net and almost 30 seconds to catch and remove that fish. I must be getting a little old and rusty! Back when I was catching fish day in and day out at the local fish store, that little clownfish never would have escaped my first swoop. But, out he went nonetheless, leaving Scott both a bit baffled and amazed at the same time.

The point of this story should be obvious. First, it is possible to remove fish from fully decorated and stocked displays. Second, the easiest method of accomplishing this feat is to get me or some other experienced fish geek to come to your house and do it for you. I am a friendly fellow and get around to a lot of local fish clubs – “Have net, will travel.” All kidding aside, there are some things to be learned from this experience. Foremost, know your fish. Know when and where they hide at night and know how they behave in general. Knowing where the fish are going keeps you one step ahead of them and enables you to cut them off and scoop them out.

Gone Fish’n

Using a rod, reel and baited hook is probably the most intimidating method of fish removal for aquarists, but it is proven to work and, in contrast to how it might appear, it does no real harm. This method is best used on belligerent fish or aggressive eaters. This is no way to catch a sick or passive fish that is being bullied in the display. For those instances, pick another method. But to remove a fish that has outgrown its current quarters or has become too territorial and is hording all the offered foods, this might be the best and easiest technique.

Pick an appropriately sized hook. Any store that carries sporting goods should also carry a variety of hooks of most any size, even some that are very small. Crimp down or file the barb off to make removing the hook easier. Then, simply bait it with the targeted fish’s favorite food and wait for the strike. Try to keep the line taut, so that the hook is not swallowed. Once the bait is taken and the fish is hooked, pull the fish out and remove the hook as soon and as cleanly as possible.

One last caveat – because this method requires the aquarist to handle the fish to remove the hook, it is not a good method for venomous fishes such as lionfish or rabbitfish. Also, be careful in general when handling any fish. Surgeonfish, for example, can certainly hurt an aquarist if they are allowed to thrash about. Gloves would be a good idea to protect both the aquarist and the fish. They protect the hands while also providing a level of self-assurance in handling the fish gently, yet firmly.

Joe Yaiullo’s Light Trick

Joe Yaiullo of the Atlantis Aquarium passed along this tidbit of information when he was discussing removing fish from his 20,000 gallon reef display. The key is to make the tank as dark as possible. Turn off all the lights at night, including any moonlights or ambient room light. Sometimes it’s necessary to cover the tank with a blanket, depending on the situation, to make the display dark enough. Then, sneak back in the middle of the night after the tank has been in complete darkness for several hours. At that time, abruptly turn on all the lights in the room and on the tank. This temporarily disorients the fish. For the next several minutes, any fish can be removed very easily. If it is known where the particular target fish “sleeps” at night, this same method can be used on a smaller scale by simply startling the fish at night with a flashlight.

Hunting at Night

Sometimes, aquarists can even catch fish at night without going through the trouble of startling them with abrupt lighting. In many instances, when you know where the fish rests in the evening, you can simply place a net in front of its abode and goose it from behind with a prod of some sort and drive it right into the net. This method works best on medium to larger fish, as it is a bit difficult to correctly “shoo” a small fish in the right direction. But this technique works well for surgeonfish, angelfish and others of similar size and behavior.

Leaving Them High and Dry

This is another method that astounds aquarists, but I assure my fellow aquarists that it is perfectly safe. All that is needed are some large barrels for holding and mixing saltwater; a large, submersible pump and a few lengths of vinyl tubing. Wave all the corals’ polyps so they retract; turn off the pumps, heater and lights; and then drain the display’s water into the barrel(s), leaving behind only a shallow puddle at the bottom. The fish will all make their way to the deepest section of water. Once there, they are easily removed. All that is needed at this point is to pump the water back into the display. Think of this as nothing more than a short low tide period. This is a good method if the tank’s water volume is not too large.

Trapping

A variety of commercial traps are available (Link 1, 2, 3) that run the gamut from targeting bristle worms and mantis shrimp to full-fledged fish traps. But the design I wish to talk about is the soda bottle (or pop bottle, for my fellow Pittsburghers) do-it-yourself trap. These are simple to build. Just take a rinsed-out soda bottle and cut off its top. Invert the top, slide it back inside the base, adhere it in place with some tape or super glue, and you are done. All that is left to do is to bait and place the trap. These work well for smaller fish or crustaceans.

The downside to this method is that these traps will first capture every single hermit crab and ornamental shrimp in the aquarium before the target animal is finally caught. It might be necessary to temporarily relocate these captured animals to a quarantine tank until the desired specimen is finally seized.

Some Final Thoughts

I have one last word of advice. Remember that we are just talking about removing a fish from an aquarium. These are animals with a brain anywhere from the size of a BB to a pea. Allowing one to outsmart you is a disgrace to the human species.

When making the first removal attempt, it is sometimes helpful to play Wagner’s “Ride of the Valkyries” in the background, a la Robert Duvall’s Lieutenant Colonel Bill Kilgore’s character from Apocalypse Now. It lets the fish know who the boss is. I love the smell of fish water in the morning. Da dadada da, da dadada da, da dadada da, da dada daaa…

With all the publicity of Finding Nemo, there is sure to be a considerable amount of interest in aquarium keeping and in particular, the care of Clownfish and Tangs.  Young, impressionable children are going to be clamoring for their parents to buy them their very own Marlin, Nemo, and Dory.  This article is intended to give a beginner some of the basic information on the care and environment required to properly house these types of pets.

Luckily, Marlin and Nemo are actually very popular and hardy fish that can be cared for relatively easily. They are sold under several common names; common Clownfish, Clown Anemonefish, false Clown Anemonefish, Percula Clownfish, or false Percula Clownfish, but their scientific name is Amphiprion ocellaris or more casually as the Ocellaris Clownfish.  These fish are naturally found throughout the Eastern Indian Ocean and Western Pacific and make an excellent addition for a beginner’s first marine aquarium.  They have an interesting, undulating swimming pattern, bright coloration, a great personality, and grow to a manageable size; making them a favorite of all saltwater enthusiasts.  Clownfish are most recognized for their symbiotic association with anemones, although they do not require an anemone to be happy and healthy in captivity.  Clownfish are almost always found within the protection of an anemone in the wild, rarely venturing more than three feet from their home.  This close association and tendency for limited travel make them a perfect subject for life in the confines of aquaria.

The anemones are another story.  Currently, there is no guaranteed methodology to succeed in keeping an anemone alive, with most all anemones removed from the ocean perishing in under a year.  This is truly appalling given that anemones are nearly immortal in the wild, have a low rate of reproduction, limited distribution, and provide critical protection from predation for Clownfishes in the wild.  Luckily, like I said above, clownfish adapt quite readily to life in the aquarium without an anemone because they don’t need the protection from predators in an aquarium.  Many times they merely take shelter near a small cave, or live with an artificial anemone, or accept an unnatural surrogate such as a Leather Coral (Sarcophyton or Lobophytum).

The other factor that makes Clownfish such a good candidate for a beginner’s aquarium is that a large number of them are currently being bred in captivity.  These farm raised fish are hardier because they do not have to survive the rigors of transport from the Indo-Pacific, a lot less disease prone and considerably less aggressive than their wild counterparts, just as colorful, already accustomed to people and prepared foods, and are an environmentally conscientious choice.  For all these reasons and more, I always urge hobbyists to purchase captive raised fish whenever possible.

Clownfish will usually take to eating just about any food offered.  A high-quality, dry, pellet food would be a good standard offering, supplemented by some frozen foods.  Frozen mysis shrimp, plankton, and bloodworms as well as any of the frozen food mixes (example: Ocean Nutrition’s Formula One) are all good choices that should be offered at least once per week.  The frozen food should be defrosted for a few minutes in a small cup containing some water from the aquarium.  Heating the frozen food in a microwave destroys some of the vitamin content of the food and should be avoided.  Simply allowing it to sit out for a minute or two on a counter will sufficiently thaw the food.  As it is defrosting, it would be a good idea to add some additional vitamin supplements to the cup.  This will allow time for the frozen food to absorb the vitamins and provide the fish with a little extra help to maintain and boost their natural coloration.  Products like Boyd’s Vita-Chem and American Marine Selcon would be excellent choices.  If the local fish store does not carry these brands, I am sure one of the knowledgeable employees there will be able to help find a suitable substitute.

If your only goal is to keep two Clownfishes, you are in luck as the initial investment will not be too great.  This is, of course, a relative statement.  I have put together some larger saltwater tanks that run into the thousands, even tens of thousands of dollars.  For the setup I outlined in the sidebar, you are probably looking at just several hundred dollars.

While two Clownfishes can live in a tank as small as 10 gallons, most beginning aquarists will be more successful starting off with something a bit larger.  The reason for this is simple; say there is a minor mishap.  An error diluted over 10 gallons could be much more tragic than the same error diluted over twice the volume.  For that reason, I would strongly urge you to purchase a minimum of a 20-gallon tank.  And, of course, something larger will give you more options for adding additional pets in the future.

Once you have selected and purchased a suitable size aquarium, choose a location in your home where it can be easily viewed and enjoyed.  While a child may desire to have the tank in their room, the rest of the family cannot see it, appreciate it, nor notice when something is going awry.  A living room or family room is a much better choice.

There are a few additional considerations as far as placement goes.  The aquarium should not be near a window, as direct sunlight may fuel unwanted algae and necessitate frequent cleaning.  Also, drafts from windows or heating and cooling ducts could cause significant temperature fluctuations in a smaller aquarium.  Dramatic shifts in temperature are unhealthy for the inhabitants and should be avoided.  Third, be sure that the tank and stand are flat and level.  It is much easier to take care of this now while everything is empty.  Another thing that is much easier to do while the tank is empty is attach the background.  This will permit removing the tank or spinning it around to make it much more convenient to securely adhere the background.  Fourth, consider that having the tank located somewhere near a sink will make maintenance that much easier and more likely to get done.  No matter what your child says, you know you are going to be the one taking care of this pet.  Make it as easy on yourself as possible.  Lastly, the tank must be situated near an electrical outlet and remember to leave space behind the aquarium for the filters that will hang off of the back and for the wires.

Once an appropriate location has been decided upon, the assembly can begin.  Please note that no fish should be brought home the same day that the equipment is purchased.  Their new home must be setup first or else the fish could be killed due to insufficiently mix saltwater or some sort of mechanical problem – and break the child’s heart. The first thing to do would be to begin treating the tap water for chlorine and mixing the saltwater in buckets.  Do not use the bucket that you use to mop the floor, as any kind of cleaning chemicals can be fatal to your fish.  Purchase several buckets for fish use only.  Follow the directions on the labels, but realize that it is much easier to add just a bit more salt to the mix than it is to dilute water with too high a concentration of salt.  And please always check with a clean hydrometer (salt concentration testing device) what the actual salinity is.  Don’t just rely on the instructions on the salt mix.  The exact amount of salt is crucial to the proper health of your pet fish.

What I am going to describe for you is what is referred to as a Fish Only With Live Rock setup or a FOWLR display.  It is a more natural methodology for caring for ornamental marine tropicals.  While there are many other acceptable ways to provide a proper environment, I prefer this method, as it is functional, relatively easy to maintain in comparison to other methodologies, and aesthetically pleasing.

Equipment Checklist for a Clownfish only tank

• Standard 20-gallon tank
• Background (I prefer a solid color, blue or black, as this shows the fish better)
• Hood with fluorescent light (fluorescent lighting gives the tank a far better color and appearance than incandescent lighting)
• Aquarium stand (not a rickety end table)
• 20 pounds of live sand
• 30 pounds of live rock
• Protein skimmer (A Red Sea Prizm would be a fine choice for up to a 30 gallon tank.  If you think you may upgrade to a larger tank in the near future an Aqua-C Remora, CPR Bak-Pak 2R, or Precision Marine HOT-1 would be a good investment.)
• Two ~100 gallon per hour powerheads for water motion (models from Aquarium Systems or Hagen are good choices)
• 100-watt submersible heater (Aquarium Systems, Ebo-Jager, Marineland, and Tetra all make fine units)
• Thermometer
• Test kits for pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Dry-Tab test kits are reliable and easy to use)
• Hydrometer
• Salt mix (I have always used and liked Instant Ocean or Reef Crystals)
• Dechlorinater
• Buckets for mixing
• Gravel siphon for changing water
• Algae pad/scraper (be sure to get a model appropriate for the tank’s material – glass or acrylic)
• Net
• Power strip (like the ones used for computers) to plug in all the electrical devices

Into the aquarium add enough live sand so that when it is evenly distributed it is approximately one inch deep. At this point, I would put all the mechanicals in place; pumps, heater, and protein skimmer.  This way when you add your live rock and decorations you can attempt to cover and disguise this items.  Just don’t plug anything on yet.  Most all aquarium devices are designed to operate submersed in water.  Operating in air (what is referred to as running dry) will damage them.  Now place the live rock into the aquarium.  Be sure to work the first few pieces down into the sand so that they end up resting securely on the bottom.  This will prevent settling of the rockwork and provide a stable footing for subsequently higher placed pieces.  Continue adding the rest of the rock while attempting to create an open looking display.  Try to build caves, crevices, and overhangs versus a brick wall.  Once you are satisfied with the layout and look of the aquascaping, you can begin to pour in the mixed saltwater.  Try to avoid dumping the water directly onto the sand, as this will quickly turn the display into a cloudy mess.  A trick it to place a small bowl or plate onto the sand and then to slowly pour the water onto it.  This basically cushions and absorbs the force of the falling water.  When the tank is filled, you can turn everything on and see your finished masterpiece.

Now that it is full and running you are probably going to be tempted to run out and buy some fish to stock it. Don’t do this just yet.  You have to allow the live rock and sand time to fully cure and the tank time to cycle.  This means merely giving the system time to develop the bacteria that will help to support the tank’s inhabitants.  This can take anywhere from one week to one month depending on the live rock and sand.  Use the test kits to monitor the progress.  Once the ammonia and nitrite are both zero and holding, you can add your fish few fish.  In the case of the twenty-gallon tank outlined here, that would be a pair of small Ocellaris Clownfish.  After one month, if ammonia and nitrite are still absent, you could introduce another tank mate or two.

Unfortunately, while properly housing Marlin and Nemo is going to be relatively easy and inexpensive, bringing home Dory is another matter completely.  Dory-type fish are known by whole host of common names in the hobby: Blue Regal Tang, Hippo Tang, Pacific Blue Surgeonfish, Palette Tang, or Blue Yellowtail Surgeonfish.  The scientific name for this fish is Paracanthurs hepatus.  One of the problems with keeping one of these fish is their full-grown size.  They grow up to a foot long as adults!  While there are many juveniles offered for sale, not being prepared to house it as an adult is inappropriate.  The smallest appropriate tank for one of these is 90 gallons.  Anything smaller than that is cruel.  Think of it much in the same way as caring for a dog.  If you were to bring home a puppy Saint Bernard and try to keep it in a cage/kennel meant for a Toy Poodle, the ASPCA would have you arrested for animal cruelty.  Fish should be thought of in the same way – as cherished family pets.

One of the other problems associated with Hepatus Tangs is their tendency to become sickly.  They have a strong propensity to contract a variety of parasitic infections, especially marine Ich or Cryptocaryon.  This infection is so prevalent with this species that many people refer to this fish as the “Ich magnet”.  There is another health concern with this particular fish.  There is a practice in some parts of the world, namely the Philippines and Indonesia, of collecting some fish using cyanide to “temporarily anesthetize” the fish and make it easier to catch.  I put these words in quotes because it does far more than that.  The cyanide does permanent damage to the fish and many times while they survive the initial exposure, death is almost certain later.  Currently there are several trade associations working to eliminate this practice, but unfortunately it is still with us.  Purchasing Hepatus Tangs that originate from Hawaii, or if they come from elsewhere, are guaranteed net caught (you may be able to find a limited number of fish that have been certified net caught by the Marine Aquarium Council, MAC for short), or were raised from larvae is a reasonable assurance that this particular specimen is safe from cyanide poisoning.

If you intend to house a Dory-type fish, I would still recommend a FOWLR setup.  It is just that everything needs to be bigger; aquarium, pumps, protein skimmer, and amounts of live rock and sand.  Again, a competent, experienced aquarium professional should be able to help guide you.

One last piece of “equipment” I would like to mention is a good book.  While I have hopefully outlined much of the basics here, this is a rather broad stroke at a vast and addictive hobby.  If long-term success is desired, I would recommend investing in a couple of good books.  Any of the publications mentioned in the bibliography would be fine, but I wanted to point out two in particular.  Michael Paletta’s “The New Marine Aquarium” is an excellent book for the general beginning saltwater hobbyist.  It is only 140 pages or so, with pictures and illustrations, and written in very comfortable language, so it should be a quick read.  It will provide a more in depth discussion than what could be provide here on topics such as equipment selection, setup, compatibility issues with fishes, selection of healthy individuals, some disease diagnosis and treatment information, and ongoing maintenance.  Scott Michael’s “Marine Fishes” is a very handy reference covering the 500+ most popular saltwater aquarium fishes.  It has pictures and a brief summary for each fish discussing adult size, suitable volume aquarium, feeding, hardiness, compatibility, and general care notes.

Hopefully, I have put you on the right road to becoming a successful hobbyist.  Like anything in life, the more you put into it, the more you will get back out of it.  Be sure to continue to read more about aquarium keeping.  The more educated you are, the better your tank will look, the healthier and longer lived your fish will be, and the fish won’t dread coming home with you like they did with Darla.

References:

Allen, Dr. Gerald R. and Daphne G. Fautin. 1994. Anemone Fishes and Their Host Sea Anemones. Tetra Press: Blacksburg, VA.

Fenner, Robert M. 1998. The Conscientious Marine Aquarist. Microcosm Ltd: Shelburne, Vermont.

Michael, Scott. 2001. Marine Fishes. T.F.H. Publications, Inc.: Neptune City, NJ.

Paletta, Michael. 2001. The New Marine Aquarium. T.F.H. Publications, Inc.: Neptune City, NJ.

Tullock, John. 2002. “Anemonefishes: The First Part.” Tropical Fish Hobbyist, March 2002.

Wilkerson, Joyce. 1998. Clownfishes: A Guide to Their Captive Care, Breeding, & Natural History. Microcosm Ltd: Shelburne, Vermont.

Here are a few pictures of the event.